Cusco: Inca Capital

On its surface, Cusco’s colonial architecture is familiar, at first glance most of its grand old mansions and churches would not look out of place in any Spanish city. But Cusco is a city of cultures laid one on of another, and it is the big, imposing pre-Columbian foundations of its historical centre that give … More Cusco: Inca Capital

Manaus to Cusco: Rio Branco and crossing the Peruvian border

As the attendant gave my ticket back, I asked where my seat was. She looked at my ticket and said ‘arriba’ with a smirk, obviously thinking that the tourist hadn’t realised that she’d bought a cheap ticket. I had a feeling it was, but looking at the large, comfortable, clean seats on the lower deck, … More Manaus to Cusco: Rio Branco and crossing the Peruvian border

The Stingray

At first I thought it was leaf. But the second time it moved I realised it was definitely alive, perhaps a snake. Then I saw its eyes and made out the shape of a stingray, rippling amongst the leaves. I called for the others to come quickly, and we all peered excitedly over the veranda … More The Stingray

Travel Plans

My initial intention had been to take the bus to Belém and then the boat to Manaus, then another boat to Porto Velho, before taking various buses from the Amazon across the Peruvian border to Machu Pichu, though in the interest of time and money I decided (about 48 hours before I left) to catch … More Travel Plans

Leaving Day

Tomorrow is leaving day. It is raining far too much. I went to a market to buy crabs with my cousin earlier on and the whole place was under half a meter of water, road, stalls and everything. The crabs were all together in a big bag, and every time someone moved it they all started writhing … More Leaving Day


What I am enjoying most about Recife at the moment is that for the first time in the seven months I have been here it doesn’t feel so unbelievably hot that I want to spend every waking moment of the day with half of my body wedged inside a fridge. Or want to take a … More Recife